Rome is a dichotomy, or maybe a
trichotomy, if such a word existed. But it probably doesn't, so let's
stick to dichotomy. Rome has two faces: the modern city entrenched in
Catholic iconography, and the ancient city that has fallen into ruin,
but lies beneath the surface in so many places. And then, at other
points, that ancient city breaks through to the surface.
Half a building still left standing |
We enjoyed a day of visiting ancient
Rome. No, we didn't time travel. We visited it as it is today, which
is to say, fallen.
My family in modern day ancient Rome |
No one building stands out more as a
symbol of ancient Rome than the Colosseum. There are many amazing
things about that place, but perhaps most of all is that it is almost
exactly like any modern stadium, but this one was built in 80 CE.
The seating and floor of the Colosseum |
The Colosseum could seat over 50,000
people. It was free for Romans to come and watch the games. They
lasted all day. There were hunts in the morning, where sets were
built to look like the native terrain of game animals. Then those
animals were placed in the sets and hunters came and stalked them and
killed them.
At lunch time, one got to enjoy
executions, especially the damnation by beast. Here, the condemned
were sent to the Colosseum floor naked and unarmed. Wild animals were
brought up by a lift, which I will mention more later, and then the
crowd would watch the condemned get torn apart and eaten.
Two arches of the Colosseum, one rough and ruined, the other still smoothly veneered |
The gladiatorial combat took place in
the afternoon. Most gladiators were slaves that were trained to
fight. A few, but very few, were free men who came to gain glory or
money. The fights were to the almost death, and then the Emperor got
to decide, by means of thumbs up or thumbs down, if the loser of the
battle lived or died.
The crowds brought food along to eat,
but there were vendors selling edibles as well. Some people even
brought portable ceramic ovens. Sounds a lot like today. I wonder if
they tailgated.
View of the underground section of the Colosseum |
The floor on which the battles took
place was made of wood, so it naturally did not survive until today.
But under it you can see the remains of the underground section, the
basement. Here the slaves, the condemned, and the animals were
brought into the Colosseum. They could be lifted to the surface in
lifts that were pulled by pulleys. There were eight lifts that could
be used, some for people, some for animals. It required about 28 men
to raise a full lift, just one of them. There were 224 slaves engaged
in moving the lifts under the Colosseum. (That's 25 ×
7 as a prime factorization, but more to the issue at hand, it is 28 ×
8).
Arch of Constantine |
Of
course, the Colosseum is only one relic of ancient Rome that remains
on the left bank of the Tiber River. Another feature is the Roman
Forum.
Wall in the Forum |
This area has the ruins of many buildings, triumphal arches,
governmental buildings, places where business was conducted.
The forum |
More of the Forum |
Here
in the Area sacra dell'Argentina, there are the remains of four
temples. You can still see the steps that led up to each. These
temples were built between the 4th
Century and 1st
Century BCE.
Area sacra dell'Argentina |
One
temple that has survived, at least structurally, is the Pantheon. To
the ancient Romans this was a temple to all of the gods.
The Pantheon |
I
say it has survived structurally, but not entirely, because when you
step inside you will see that any of the Roman iconography has been
removed. Not a trace of it. It has all been replaced with Catholic
statuary, paintings, carvings, and other art. Inside, this is clearly
a Catholic church, though its architecture makes another claim.
A street side ruin |
In
Rome, you can be walking down the road, and there are ruins just up
against a modern building. It's like, hey honey, I found a Roman ruin
in the yard. Call the archaeologists!
The ruins next door |
And
that's part of the dichotomy. The people of this modern city have an
ancient one all around, possibly even under their own feet. And yet,
they go about their daily lives like people in any city. They ignore
the fact that where they live was once the capital of a sprawling
empire, because, well, it doesn't much matter in day to day life.
And
I imagine, if I lived everyday in Rome, that eventually I would have
to forget about the ancient city while I was at work or at home. But
still, when I was walking down the street and saw a column or arch,
it would all come back to me.
No comments:
Post a Comment