The word "mecca" means a place that a group of people (usually with some common characteristic) want to go. For example, die-hard baseball traditionalists might think of Wrigley Field in Chicago as their mecca. Die-hard mountain climbers might consider Mount Everest in Nepal (or Tibet) as their mecca. Die-hard gladiators (and they better be die-hard or they won't last long in the profession) might think of the Colosseum in Rome as their mecca. I realize that last group, in these modern times, is very small.
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Alrica in the sign and the Church of Our Lady of Remedies behind her on the hill |
Mecca, the word, comes from the name Mecca, the city in Saudi Arabia. That's the name of the city rendered in the Latin alphabet, which is not how the Saudis would render it. But I don't do so well writing in the Arabic alphabet, and I suspect few of my readers (I'm sure my daughter is an exception) do all that well in reading the Arabic alphabet. In the case of Mecca, the city, the group in question is Muslims. One of the pillars of Islam is that at least once in their lifetimes, each Muslim should, if able to in regards to health and finances, make the pilgrimage to Mecca. It's called the Hajj (which may be one of the few, if not only, words in English with a double j.)
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The altar at Our Lady of Remedies |
So Mecca is literally a mecca for Muslims, and by extension of the idea, it is a word for such a highly regarded site which attracts its followers. This all makes sense. But a recent trip got me thinking, Mecca, the city, is not the original mecca of the world. Other groups, even other religions, have had their pilgrimage sites well before Islam was established. And that is the roundabout way of getting to our recent excursion.
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The city of Cholula stretching out from below the hill |
About six or seven miles west of Puebla is the city of Cholula. It is the oldest continuously inhabited city in Mexico. When the Spanish arrived, in the sixteenth century, they found a complex city with advanced irrigation and temples with intricate and confusing designs. In classic Hern´n Cortéz fashion, he told the locals he was going to have a meeting, in the center of the city, to discuss living together peacefully. (That's not the classic Cortéz part yet.) When the men of the city arrive, he has his soldiers ambush them and kill them. In the meantime, he has his allies attacking the women and children whose men have gone to the center of the city. (Yeah, that's the classic part. Are there any stories of Cortéz that don't involve a massacre? I mean, I know he's a conquistador and this is pretty much what conquistadors do. But if he ever took pity on a child or saved a kitten from a tree, those stories seem not to have been recorded.)
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Ancient walls and stairs |
But prior to that arrival, the city of Cholula was something of a mecca for the indigenous people. Many outsiders came to the city to trade, but many also came to visit the various temples. Unfortunately, none of these temples survived. The Spanish tore them all down to use the material to build their own churches and homes.
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The reddish wall at top left is ancient, but less ancient than the gray walls to the right |
If you have a sense of when things happened, you may have caught me in an error. The sixteenth century is well after the establishment of Islam. The rituals of the Hajj were laid out by the prophet Muhammad in 625 CE. That's the seventh century, way before the sixteenth. Yes, you're right. How I could be so off by nearly a millennium?
Something else the Spanish found, in another part of the city, was a big hill, a very big hill! At first they did nothing with the hill, but eventually they built a church on the top of it. It is the Nuestra Señora de los Remedios. This means it is the church of Our Lady of Remedies. Then in the nineteenth century, well after the church had been built, people noticed some strange stone jutting out of the hill. It looked not so much natural, but like a piece of a wall.
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Not sure if you can tell how steep these stairs are. Heart throbbing in exertion on the way up. Heart throbbing from fear on the way down. |
In the late nineteenth century, the first archaeological work began. Turns out, that big hill wasn't a natural hill. It was an abandoned pyramid! Of course, the archaeologists couldn't just dig up the hill, there was a beautiful Catholic church on top of it. So they dug a tunnel into the hill and they had to take earth from the inside out in carts.
What they found is the Great Pyramid of Cholula. Even that is a bit misleading, because it was a complex of multiple buildings. The earliest pyramid began in the first century CE. Over the next 800 years, the people of Cholula were adding on, building over, and building up this very wide pyramid. It was a major religious site, and people from all around would visit Cholula to worship there. So it was a mecca, pre-Mecca!
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Look at those tools. Look at that needle! |
Today, there is the Archaeological Zone of Puebla, just to the south of the hill. Here you can see pieces of ancient structures, the ones that were not directly under the church. You can't go into the hill under the church. But your ticket to the Archaeological Zone is also a ticket to the Archeological Site museum, a couple blocks away. There you can see a recreation of the hill, cut away so you can see the structures of the pyramid that lie under the present day church. You can read (in both Spanish and English) about the different groups who inhabited Puebla over the centuries. Each had their own styles of pottery, variations in burial rituals, and access to materials not found locally. You can see artifacts that were excavated from the site, including some of those styles of pottery, ancient needles made of bone, and lithic tools. This means tools made of stone (or sometimes bone) because the people of the region didn't have much access to metal or metallurgy.
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Cut away to show the church over the pyramid over another pyramid and how much bigger those pyramids are than the church above. |
The day Alrica and I visited was something of a perfect day. The weather was wonderful, blue skies with a few puffy white clouds, warm without being too hot, dry, and bright. We took a bus that we caught just half a block from our house which took us directly to the city of Cholula. And it cost 10 pesos each (which is about 0.53 US dollars.) From the bus stop it wasn't a long walk to the Archaeological Zone. We saw ancient walls and staircases and pillars. It was really interesting to see how one group would just build over the work of a previous group. In one place there was a staircase that went down and its base ended at a wall. Why? Because the staircase was older and when a new structure was built, they just built it right around the old one, blocking it off.
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You can buy alcohol with scorpions in it! |
After we visited the Archaeological Zone, we walked through a plaza with craft vendors (and carnival rides, but those weren't running in the morning on a weekday.) Then we climbed the hill (and it was a steep climb) up to the church of Our Lady of Remedies. As we were climbing, way down below us, we heard music, like a marching band. There was some sort of parade, but we were far up, and there was no way we would get to it, right? More on that in a bit.
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Or all three scorpions in the same bottle if you prefer |
The church is beautiful. It has two bell towers that ring frequently. And just before they begin ringing the bell, some pyrotechnics are set off. It sounds like powerful cannons, but it is probably some sort of fireworks. Still, when you are near the church or the hill, it's very loud, startling. I wonder if the locals just get used to it.
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Being painted while we visited. You can see the brighter orange versus the sun-bleached orange |
Remember the parade I mentioned? Well, we were in luck. Their parade route ended at Our Lady of Remedies. We just got lucky in the timing, because here comes a band followed by people carrying displays of religious figures. I won't pretend to know who all those figures were, though I suspect at least one of them was Jesus. Probably one of them was Mary also, but I don't want to swear to having recognized them.
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Not sure who those people are, the ones being carried or the ones carrying. |
Our trip to the Archaelogical Site Museum after our trip to the church. And from there we went to lunch. We tried pozole. Pozole is a soup, somewhat thick, but not so thick as stew. There are various kinds of pozole, but the key ingredient that makes it pozole is hominy. It's corn, like really big kernels of corn that have been treated with some alkaline solution to soften it and make it flavorful. Pozole also has meat, traditionally pork, but it can be made with chicken too. From that auspicious start, there are many variations in which seasoning and vegetables are included. The different seasonings and ingredients give various pozoles different colors of broth. Alrica had Pozole Blanco (white) and I had Pozole Verde (green). The other traditional color is red, Pozole Rojo. Think about red, white, and green. Do you see an extra significance?
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That's Pozole Blanco |
Yes! Those are the colors of the Mexican flag. Pozole is often served for Mexican Independence Day. When you get pozole, it is served with a tray on which you find various potential add-ins. We had diced red onion, red chili pepper powder, oregano, slices of avocado, and sliced limes. Also on the tray were two sides: chicharrón (which is a fried pork rind) and tostadas (which are fried tortillas similar in appearance to roti from India.) As a drink we got a pitcher of maracuya juice (passion fruit). It was an excellent meal!
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You guessed it. Pozole Verde! |
The meal was a great end to a fun time in Cholula. If you are ever in the Puebla area, consider taking your own pilgrimage over to Cholula. Though, I'll be honest. While the city has been continuously inhabited since the first century, it hasn't been a pilgrimage site for over 400 years. Hence, our word for a pilgrimage site is not a cholula. But there is a hot sauce named for Cholula. It's not made in Cholula, it's made in Chapala which is 530 kilometers away (or 330 miles if you prefer.) Still, Cholula inspired the name of the sauce. So maybe Cholula is, once again, a mecca, this time for capsaicin addicts.
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In case we didn't get enough religion, we had Jesus on the bus with us on the way home. |