In case you fear it has been a week without exploration, let me assuage those concerns. We have done more in the city of Seoul.
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| The Banpo Bridge Fountain |
We visited the National Museum of Korea. The museum building itself is quite a lovely one. And there are three floors with exhibits. My favorite exhibit was the one about prehistory (the time before writing,) which explored the earliest Stone Age people who lived in Korea (and the parts of China attached to the Korean Peninsula.) On display were many artifacts found in Korea and lots of good explanation in both Korean and English.
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| The 12 story pagoda in the National Museum of Korea |
Have you ever heard of the Movius Line? (No, sadly it is not related to the Möbius strip from topology.) An archaelogist named Hallam Movius noticed that in some prehistoric archeological sites (in northeast India and East Asia) they never found the heads of stone hand axes. But in western India, Europe, and Africa, they did. He proposed that there was a line which separated various Stone Age groups and those on one side of it did develop the hand axe and those on the other side didn't. They just used choppers, meaning they sort of bashed things to cut them. But a fossil was found in Korea by a U.S. service man when he was out on a picnic with his Korean girlfriend. He found the head of a hand axe. So it turns out that Movius's idea (which was named for him) isn't entirely true. Some cultures on the other side of the line did develop hand axes.
The history (as opposed to prehistory) exhibit was less engaging for me. There was a lot of information about the different kingdoms and dynasties that ruled the peninsula along with artifacts from those times. But knowing nothing about Korean history, I didn't have the context to take it all in. I didn't quite get it.
We passed back by Seoul Station. I already talked about Seoul Station, groceries, and the lack of ATMs in a previous post. But this time, like last time, there were Christian groups chanting, singing, and declaiming in front of the station. Christianity is not the majority religion here, but it is the plurality religion. Most South Koreans identify as non-religious. Of those who do identify as religious, Christianity is the largest group, making up 31% of the population. I noticed the Christian groups the first time we went. They are identifiable because their banners, which include mostly the Korean Alphabet, do include some Latin Alphabet, in particular the word "JESUS." So, while I don't entirely get it, meaning I don't know what they're saying or singing, I have an idea what the umbrella theme is.
This time I noticed that along with the spirituality of Christianity that came to Korea, so did some of the biases. A sign read "Homosex Out". I am going to take that to mean "Homosexuals Out." South Korea doesn't have all the same protections for same-sex couples as are found in other developed nations. Same-sex intercourse is legal, but same-sex marriage is forbidden. If you are in the military (and all men must serve for 18 months when they turn 18) then same-sex intercourse is also illegal. And the laws don't protect against discrimination of homosexuals in South Korea.
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| There is just enough English on this banner that I know I don't want to translate the rest |
I can't say I know much about the political leanings of the people here. But in a completely separate outing, I walked along the Cheonggyecheon Stream again. But unlike last time where I went downstream, this time I went upstream to where it begins. There, I came up to street level and I heard drums. I thought there was a parade, but then I realized, no, this is a protest. No, this is two protests. There were two separate protests going on. One was marching along the road to the south of the stream toward me. The other was marching along the road to the north of the stream away from me.
The U.S. State Department is clear that U.S. citizens are not supposed to participate in protests in other countries. Not that the State Department could arrest you for it. How would they know? But, if you do get arrested in a protest in another country, the State Department can refuse to help you. "We told you not to protest in other countries, you did it anyway. We wash our hands of you."
I had no intention of joining either protest. I didn't even know what they were protesting.
I was pretty easily able to see the front of the parade coming toward me. They had signs in both Korean and English, so I now know they were in favor of "Free Palestine", "Break all ties with Israel," and "Stop the War in Iran."
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| The lead car of the protest coming toward me |
I was never able to get to the front of the other protest marchers. They were carrying a lot of flags, many with Korean words on them. One person did have a Palestinian Flag, so maybe their protest was also about Palestine. But that was only one flag among many other flags.
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| This was the protest that was moving away from me |
I wondered if the two protests were a protest and a counter-protest. But they didn't seem to be paying much attention to one another. So I suspect they were just two separate protests.
Also at the source of the stream, though not at street level, rather down at stream level, Seoul has set up an outdoor library. They have all kinds of comfy chairs, little tables, and bookshelves along the path at the side of the stream. You can take a book, sit out in the sun, and read. There were even some books with titles in English, so maybe the books themselves were in English. I don't know, I didn't stop to read.
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| I appreciate the bilingual explanation |
One night we went to the Banpo Bridge Fountain. On the side of the Banpo Bridge, which crosses the Han River, there are water jets and colored lights. From April through October, they do a fountain show at noon, 7:30 PM, 8:00 PM, 8:30 PM, and (more on this last one) 9:00 PM. There was an announcement over the PA system that explained that they are not doing the 9:00 PM show this year during the month of April. It is because of the energy crisis going on. (Asia is highly affected by the closing of the Strait of Hormuz.) That's okay, because Alrica and I were there for the 7:30 PM show.
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| It isn't nearly as interesting when the sky isn't dark yet |
The show itself was fine. It wasn't particularly spectacular. It wasn't nearly so impressive as the fountain show in Kuala Lumpur. But what fascinated me was the music.
First, it must not be the same show at each time slot. The show is 20 minutes long. So Alrica and I were walking away from the site of the show when the 8:00 PM show started. I don't know if the water was different or if the lights where different, but the music was completely different.
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| The colors pop more as it gets dark out |
That 7:30 PM show must be for English speakers who are around my age or maybe a bit older. Because these are the songs they played during the show (in order):
- California Dreamin' by the Mamas and the Papas
- Let It Be by the Beatles
- Imagine by John Lennon
- Take me Home, Country Roads by John Denver
- Stand By Me by Ben E. King
- Piano Man by Billy Joel
The first song of the 8:00 PM show was hip-hop and I didn't recognize it. But definitely from a different era.
Last night, Alrica and I went out for the evening to the Hongdae Walking Street. This is pedestrian only and has lots of shopping, coffee stands, restaurants, and performance spaces along it. We stopped at Whatever Tacos to try a taco and see if it was really like the ones we know and love from home. We got a carnitas taco and it was good. But it didn't taste like the ones in Reno. This is not to say that Reno is the world's foremost center of authenticity when it comes to carnitas. But I suspect it is closer to center than Seoul.
We also tried something called Egg Bread. This is literally a sweet bread with a hard boiled egg inside it. We got a very delicious dumpling. And we bought some waffle fish. We like waffle fish! I don't always get everything, but I fully understand waffle fish. And I get them!
The entertainers were talented. When the singers were singing "Ahh" I totally followed along. As soon as they hit lyrics that went beyond "Ahh" my lack of Korean comprehension was a detriment. But I could appreciate their voices and ability to play their instruments. There were also groups of girls dancing, and in one place a kind of clown show. The clown had batons which were on fire on both ends, but fire twirling only seemed to be a small part of the show. I was surprised. I figured clowning is pretty universal. This was even a silent clown show. He wasn't speaking. So it should be just as fun for everyone, right? And yet, some of the things the clown did make the crowd laugh and I didn't know what was funny about it. It's not like I missed the joke, as he wasn't speaking. And yet, I missed the joke somehow.
But I did see a bar called Mimic. And its logo involved a Mimic, which is a monster in D&D that looks like a treasure chest, but when you open it, it tries to eat you. So I appreciated that logo. Because I got it!
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| You're not getting that treasure! |
Honestly, I appreciate all of it. At times I may disagree with Christian preachers about gay rights or I may see protests I can't explain. Still, I feel I am learning a lot about the people and culture here. Even when I don't always get it.


















































