If you were going to build a bridge over a river, and you were going to make the suspension arches look like the body of a dragon complete with scales, and you were going to include the dragon's underbelly on the underside of the bridge, and one end of the bridge would be a dragon tail and the other would be a dragon head, and you were going to name it Cầu Rồng which means Dragon Bridge, so that's a lot things you were going to do, what else would you do to totally sell it, complete the dragonness of the entire thing? What is the essential characteristic of a dragon?
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| The dragon's head |
I think that the essential characteristic of a dragon is breathing fire. Yes, for those into D&D (like me), some dragons breath other things: acid, ice, electricity, poison, but setting that aside, classical dragons breathe fire. So if you were building such a bridge, wouldn't you want it to breathe fire?
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| The dragon's underbelly |
If you are the Vietnamese government, the answer is yes. The Dragon Bridge of Da Nang breathes fire. I know, that sounds dangerous. But no worries. It doesn't breathe fire all the time. It does it at 9:00 PM on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays and some holidays also. Alrica and I went to see it happen last night.
The bridge is closed to traffic during the ten minute display. Though they let cars go along the bridge right up until the fire begins. Like, cars didn't stop entering the bridge until about ten seconds before the fire began. First, you see a fire light in the mouth of the dragon. Then in intervals, it blasts out like a flame thrower for about 15 seconds. Then it goes back to just being in the mouth, but a minute later it blasts out again.
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| Make a save versus breath weapon! |
This happens a few times and then the fire goes out. After that, the dragon sprays water out of its mouth. Like the fire, this happens in bursts and then there are pauses in between. The pauses are a bit shorter for the water.
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| The water is a bit harder to see than the fire, but I think you can tell what's going on. |
Seeing it happen was cool, very cool even. I applaud Vietnam's commitment to completing the draconic features of the bridge. But this was not the most amazing experience Alrica and I had last night.
We walked from our apartment to the bridge. It was maybe a 35 minute walk. We planned to stop somewhere and eat. But endeavoring to not only see the restaurants designed for tourists and expats—there are so many foreign people in Da Nang—we turned on various smaller streets. And along the way we passed an unassuming restaurant called Quán Nhậu Hồng Hải, but it was crammed full of people. All of them were locals. So we figured it had to be good. We went in and got a table for two.
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| I took this picture on the way home. The restaurant was a lot busier when we arrived. |
Lucky for us, there was one waiter there who did speak English. He brought us a menu that was in Vietnamese, English, and Mandarin. (I think it might have been their only copy of the trilingual menu.) He advised us to try two of their bestsellers: fried oysters and fried scallops. We agreed. Then we sat back and just enjoyed the scene. There was so many happy groups, chatting in Vietnamese, laughing, one of them even had a waitress get a picture of them together. At the table next to us were two middle-aged men enjoying Tiger Beer. A plate came to their table and they started speaking to the waiter (not the one who spoke English.) I saw one of them gesturing to Alrica and me. Eventually that waiter came over and set down the plate, two fish, like the whole fish, fried and served with some green leafy vegetable and a bowl of a green sauce that turned out to be based on chili peppers. He got out his cell phone and used a translation app to show me that this plate was being given to us by the two men at the table beside us and they had already paid for it. I said thank you to the waiter and to the two men (several times) which is one of the few phrases I know in Vietnamese.
But the question arose, how are you supposed to eat this? There are no forks. There are only chopsticks. How do you eat an entire fish (head, eyes, and scales still on it) using only chopsticks? Well, we muddled through. It was pretty easy to peel away the scales. And the meat inside was so tender it came off the skeleton easily as we gripped it with our chopsticks. I did get the occasional bone in my mouth, and I did move it to the front of my mouth with my tongue and use my fingers to get it back down to the plate. But for most of my bites, I didn't have that problem. I enjoyed the green sauce, Alrica found it a bit spicy. And the green leafy vegetable, I don't know what it was, but it had that pungent effect of horseradish or wasabi. I liked that too.
So we are doing great with our fish, right? And our scallops and oysters arrived a bit later and they were amazing! Alrica was in love in the scallops. I think she is more in love with me that the scallops, but that could just be optimistic yearning on my part. But back to the fish. I finished eating half of it, the half facing up. You could see the main spine and all the bones coming out and under that was the other half of the meat. So here's the question? How do you get to the other half? Do you try to pick out the skeleton (with chopsticks)? Do you flip the fish over (again with chopsticks)? I went for the latter, flipping it. I didn't fully succeed. I ended up using my fingers to assist in the flippage.
Incidentally, this entire meal, the oysters, the scallops, and bottles of water for each of us, cost us less than ten dollars. Phenomenally good seafood for under ten dollars? Pretty spectacular.
When the men at the next table got up to leave, we also stood. We shook their hands and thanked them again. They said some things to us which we didn't understand. But they stopped the one waiter who spoke English, and had him translate. They wanted to know how we enjoyed the fish and we told them it was fantastic.
Why did these two men send of a plate of two whole fish to strangers? I don't know, but I think they wanted us to experience some of the real flavors of Vietnam. I think they were excited to see some of the foreigners in this restaurant which probably serves locals 99.8 percent of the time. Or maybe they realized, by the time it was served, that they just didn't want it. Whatever their reason, it was super generous and kind. It made the entire experience unexpected and heart-warming. And we super appreciate it.
Isn't having unexpected (and hopefully, at times, heart-warming) experiences what you hope for in travel? Maybe, if I'm not overstating things too much, it is one of travel's essential characteristics.





































